Optimal power is always based around adjustments to ignition. So you can see why just dumping or removing fuel without making changes to this now "free-er flowing system", can act as a band-aid in terms of making the bike run clean/smooth. The spark begins combustion and it has a direct effect on how an engine runs, how much power and torque it makes, and how reliable it is. Ignition Timing or ignition advance is the point in the engine cycle when the ECU generates the spark at the plug. We make our adjustments to the ignition maps to built a solid TQ line without losing a fraction of HP. Paired with disabling AIS/Pair Systems on the bike along with a built-in weather station to appropriately display the torque curves based on atmospheric changes. Here at Toce Performance, we run our changes to ignition on our DynoMite Dyno. Proper ignition is the single most important and critical element in tuning an internal-combustion engine. Now, as we already mentioned fuel is not the only focal point one should adjust when making modifications for optimal performance. With changes to ignition, we were able to increase the torque an additional 14.3 foot pounds and 1900 RPM's earlier making this bike truly fun to ride. While remapping both the IAP (Cruise map) and TPS (Load map) to make a smooth transitioning street bike, into a powerhouse. Despite initially losing midrange tq and hp, with the knowledge of our tuners, and many many runs on the dyno, we were able to generate 31.5 Extra Horsepower out of the bike. Just from these modifications, we made an increase +10whp at top end. We unrestricted the factory settings, and only made adjustments to Yamaha's ETV System (Electronic Control Throttle Valve) which is extremely limited from the factory. Here's a dyno sheet of our 2015 Yamaha R1 - BMC Air Filter and 3/4 Cat Delete Toce Exhaust. Here's a great example over why ECU Remapping and eliminating the ECU's factory restrictions is so much more beneficial than Piggy Back Units. Even piggyback systems that have "auto-tune" features are still only hacking the injector signal to reach a targeted AFR. More fuel, less fuel to reach a target AFR (air-to-fuel ratio). When you run a piggyback system, most of them are interfaces that connect between the ECU, and the sensors (typically fuel injectors) to interrupt this programmed signal from the ECU and change it to accommodate for changes the user wants. Significant improvements can be achieved by correcting the stock ECU's deficiencies and tuning the engine to take full advantage of its potential. The result of this is often a compromise resulting in sub-optimal performance. Stock ECU's generally are far from optimal and are developed to allow for a wide range of riding styles, fuel quality and operational conditions. ECU ReFlashing, in general terms, is a method of erasing the ECU’s program code (instructions) and reprogramming the vehicles ECU’s Flash Memory with altered program code, thereby changing how the ECU will respond to inputs. The term “Flash Memory” refers to a particular type of EEPROM that has a fast erase and reprogram time of its internal storage. Most ECU’s have a main memory storage system that is comprised of a nonvolatile Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory device called an EEPROM. All of these output responses from the ECU have to be predefined in ECU’s internal memory. In general terms, the ECU is primarily responsible for monitoring and managing the engine's performance via a number of sensors and then calculating the proper signal to send external devices to control the operation of the engine. I'll get it.Most modern engines are equipped with a microprocessor-based computer referred to as the Engine Control Unit or Electronic Control Unit which is abbreviated to ECU. That's it! I can live with this system but when the FLASH COMES OUT. I felt the power gains above 6000 RPMs and had to get on the throttle. Second, The Rapid Bike RB EVO YAMAHA R1 2020 does exactly as it advertises.įrom the Website: PLEASE READ BEFORE ORDERING: Rapid Bike always manages all injectors and the very first time ever we will only be able to manage upper (secondary ) injectors on the NEW 2020 R1 model, because of that we are only able to make adjustments above 6000 RPM and over 40% throttle and making manual adjustments below 6000 rpm under 40% throttle will make almost no difference This action seemed to have almost no impact below specified perimeters and results may vary from one bike to another. Also installed the Graves Yamaha R1 Cat Eliminator Exhaust Valve Type-Rįirst, The Graves system drives the EV so staying true and clean to the factory ECU, works well and does smooth out the power band and sounds really nice, not sure the price is worth it but its a done deal for me. I installed the Rapid Bike Module on my 2020 R1.
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